Wednesday, August 18, 2010

La Coruña

We´re back.

After a French air traffic controller strike delayed my departure for the States by a day, and then KLM managed to lose my suitcase in Amsterdam on the return, I was ready for a vacation.

We had 2 fabulous weeks in Galicia, based in La Coruña. V´s father´s family is from the city so V has about 30 cousins and assorted aunts and uncles there. We usually stay at the Hotel Palas (V likes to say that as though it were the ¨Palace¨) which is very basic but centrally located, clean and reasonably priced. But since we were staying 2 weeks and not 2 days, we opted for a studio apartment. What we didn´t realize was that there would be nothing but the room - no utensils, no dishware, no sheets, no toilet paper. Of the 150 € we saved over the hotel, we spent approximately 100€ on stuff from the Chinese dollar store down the street.

But for the entire 2 weeks it only rained twice - at night. Which pretty much balances out the 8 straight days of rain we had in June.

I have neither the figure nor the disposition for the beach - I get bored and can only read on my stomach, but the beach at Santa Cristina was a real discovery. We have gone by bus on trips before we bought the car, but it´s time consuming and confusing. With the car, though, it was about 15 minutes outside La Coruña and a great day - places to eat, great beach with almost no people (during the week), just lovely. We had a fabulous mariscada (giant platter of grilled fish/seafood) salad and a bottle of wine for about 45€ at a place just across the street from the sand.


We also like to hang out in the historic part of La Coruña, but it´s not that big and after you´ve visited your favorite places a couple of times, it´s charm fades. But we found a new spot - O Viñedo - with a killer Raxo (pork loin with garlic and parsely) garnished with roasted red peppers and french fries for 7€.

Since we´re now mobile - we got around a bit as well - Santo Andres de Teixido (A SAN ANDRÉS DE TEIXIDO vai de morto quen non foi de vivo - you have to visit after you´re dead if you don´t get there while alive, according to the Galician saying),

the northernmost point of Galicia at Bares, and we travelled a bit up and down the Camiño de Santiago along the French route.

I will not say much more, but I think we have finally found our spot. It has it´s drawbacks - collapsed or collapsing walls, the roof is down, no plumbing or wiring. But the location is beautiful and private with 2000 m2 of garden, a barn, and still only about 4 kilometers from the village of Melide with all necessary services (and awesome pulpo). I don´t want to jinx it - so I´ll say no more, but encouragement for the undertaking is welcome.

Yes those are saplings and wild blackberries growing in the ¨living room¨.


  1. Welcome back, I've missed your blog.I wish you had sent one of the two days of rain to us we have been dry now for two months and the garden is suffering.Good luck with the house, I hope it all goes according to plan.

  2. Thank you! It didn´t amount to much - wet cars in the morning mostly. Strange that Andalucia is drowning while Galicia and Portugal are having forest fires.
    I always mean to try to pass by your way either coming or going, but we always get distracted. Hope the garden hangs on.